Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Ciao!!



When I set out from Providence four months ago, it seemed totally reasonable to try to update the blog every week. That pretty much worked out at the beginning, because time was going pretty slowly. Three months ago I was convinced that I would be here forever, so the week between blog updates seemed like a pretty healthy dose of time. Now, however, Easter a month ago might as well have happened yesterday, and the last six and a half weeks are hurtling by faster than I can keep track of....despite all efforts to close my eyes, loudly hum "La Forza Mia" (TU SARAI LA FORZA MIA! DUM DUM DUM DUM DUM DUM), and ignore the fact that pretty soon I'll be heading home with everyone else.

A brief update on life since Easter:

- Venice with a friend from school
- Le Cinque Terre, an incredible set of five towns in Liguria with amazing, amazing, amazing panoramas. We went on a field trip for a day, which involved more sunbathing and gelato-eating and was more or less absolutely splendid.
- a trip to France and Germany with other classes from school (this was a lesson in the fact that not all field trips will involve going out to Spanish bars, like the class trip to Florence. :) It definitely depends on the professors who go with you. With this set, we ran into problems immediately because the food at the hotel was so bad we resorted to stealing marmalade packets to make it through the night, which the professors didn't think fell under the category of "comporting yourself well". The bad humor didn't last long though, because they gave us Nutella for breakfast.)
- the prospect of a week in Sardegna with my host family after school finishes in June and four days in the Alps for the end-of-stay orientation with AFS

OK, that's enough of deliberately being a stronza (another fun Italian word which is somewhere between "jerk" and "bitch") and trying to make people jealous. What's way more satisfying than the amazing opportunities to travel and see so much of the world is the fact that after four months, it feels like a lifetime has passed.

Thinking back to the cold, gray February days when I didn't speak Italian and everything was new and my host mother was yelling at me to get with the program and start being a part of their family, things couldn't be more different. Maria Gloria and I are best friends now - we watch Gossip Girl (in English! woo hoo!!! Otherwise there would be no way to follow all of the ridiculous plot twists) and The Fast and the Furious (her choice - she has a weird thing for exploding cars) together, do her homework together (mine is nonexistent) and waste sunny afternoons on the balcony playing with our cameras. It took a long time to try to figure out that the only way to be helpful at home is to take the initiative and not wait to be asked, but now I do the dishes all the time and help my host mom clean the house. My host sister finds this very weird. Two of the most difficult conversations I've had with my host mom - explaining the concept of premade spaghetti sauce and the fact that my dad usually does the laundry.

And it's fun that finally everything is starting to feel normal. Homemade pizza every Saturday night is wonderful, but normal. Going shopping in Milan is hugely entertaining, but normal. (Ok, "shopping" means a pair of pants and a sweatshirt....when you go into stores like Dolce&Gabbana it's seriously just to look, since most things are behind glass, like in a museum. So it's much more like going to an art exhibition!) Speaking Italian is enormously satisfying, but I kind-of-sort-of-almost-depending understand what's going on when people talk now, but that's normal too. Not doing homework is also normal, although seriously I'm kind of ready for that to end. Drinking huge bowls of tea in the morning is normal. Taking in sun on the balcony in the afternoons is normal. Singing Italian songs with my friends on the bus in the afternoon is normal. Walking to the bus stop past roses in full bloom and fruit orchards is normal. The problem with five months is that it takes at least three months to reach that level of comfort....and then you leave forever.

Vado adesso....la mamma sta facendo cena e devo apparechiare la tavola!

Baci

Monday, April 13, 2009

AUGURI PER UNA BUONA PASQUA!!!!!

Sorry it's a day late.... :)

Anyway, Easter here was AMAZING. And also very very Italian.

Every Easter a significant portion of my host dad's family (with six brothers and a sister, all with their own families, there's no way all of them could come together at the same time) eats lunch together at the nonni's house in Osnago. Sunday morning, we all woke up (my host mother at 6 am, to continue the cooking she had been working on steadily since the same time Saturday morning), and everyone but my host mom (still cooking) went to church. That was rather exciting - my host dad was singing with the choir like usual, but the service had a twist because the priest was a visiting Vietnamese man who looks like he's twelve, and a woman who we think was pregnant had to be rushed out right before Communion.

After church, we dashed back home, tried to figure out which of the dishes piled in the refrigerator we were supposed to get, ran back inside because we had forgotten the bottle of wine and vase of flowers, and then drove to Osnago with all of the food balanced on our laps. Luckily my host dad was driving, and not Luca, because otherwise the vitello con tonnato wouldn't have ever made it to Osnago in one piece.

In Osnago, we all piled into the formal dining room, and shortly commenced eating. A snapshot: Four courses. Starting with an antipasto of four types of meat, insalata del mare, three types of salad that my host mom had made, three types of crostini, and lots of other stuff drenched in olive oil. Then risotto ai funghi....creamy perfection, with just enough woody flavor from the mushrooms. *sighs of contentment* Then lamb and potatoes, although by this point everyone was so stuffed that most people passed on it. Then gelato. Then colombo, a type of cake shaped like a dove which is traditional at Easter. Then caffè, finished off by a round of chocolate egg. I just wanted to make sure I recorded this meal for posterity.... But the really nice thing is that the food isn't the focus point. Everyone compliments everything and thoroughly enjoys it all, but no one pays any attention to how much you eat, unless to offer you more. Mainly it's just a time to enjoy family. Everyone talks really loudly and at the same time, spills wine on the tablecloth, and tries to stop the 97-year-old grandmother from trying to do everything by herself.

Afterwards everyone was basking in happiness and too much good food, and my family decided to go for a "giretto" since the weather was good. We finally made it to Bergamo, which is closer than Milan and actually much prettier, since all of the old stuff in Milan was destroyed during the World Wars.

When we got home, everyone was exhausted. We all drank warm milk with sugar (nature's comfort food) and ate peanuts and biscotti, while my host mom recounted embarassing childhood stories of Maria and Luca. And then bed.

La più bella Pasqua....per sempre!

Saturday, March 21, 2009

So much to say!

Starting nowhere in particular, Thursday was absolutely amazing. My host parents had to go to Como in the afternoon to sign something for their insurance company, and afterwards we drove all around the lake that connects Como and Lecco. The lake is quite extensive though, so the road winds for miles and miles through little tiny towns (which by now exist solely through the life-blood of tourism), all perched precariously on the cliffs and mountains overlooking the lake. The weather was very luckily gorgeous - there will be pictures eventually, although there's no way they can possibly do it justice!

There have been lots of really interesting moments in the past couple of weeks that stem from being an American abroad at a very interesting time in American and global history. I have yet to meet anyone who isn't very, very enthusiastic Obama - and simultaneously, very, very strongly anti-Bush. But at the same time, everyone is worried stiff about the economic crisis. Italy's economic boom is relatively recent, especially in terms of how old the country is, and there are still a lot of areas of instability, which are compounded by rising immigration, high unemployment rates, and the fact that everybody is disatisfied with everything the government does. All the time. Pretty much without exception, at least for the small part of Italy that I've seen. So sometimes people just ask questions about American music and habits (and usually if we're all overweight or obese), other times they very, very directly confront you about America's role in creating the current crisis.

It was really neat in today's English class, though, because we started analyzing Obama's inauguration speech. The English teacher is very good - she studied in England for a few years, so she speaks perfectly, and most of the class is actually focused on literature (we've been reading Richard III, and are starting Macbeth next week), so you don't actually lose out on much being a native-speaker. And today we started talking about accents in the US and Italy, because la Maroni (the English prof), had read an article in Time about people in the US cultivating their accents to alter their effect on other people. Afterwards, I tried to teach the other students how to talk like an American trying to talk like an Italian, and then they taught me how to speak like an Italian trying to speak like an American but actually speaking like a British person, who's confused about their place of birth and may or may not actually be Italian. This continued all the home on the bus.... Bellissima!!

Now approaching the seven week mark, it's easy to say that pretty much all of the expectations I had about everything have turned out to be completely wrong. :) There's absolutely no way to anticipate how complex everything ends up being. For example, the last thing I expected is that living in a family would be the hardest part of the experience. But in fact, everything is going absolutely wonderfully except, at times, the relationship between me and my host mother. It's very easy to forget that we've only been living together for 7 weeks, so you don't have the 17 years of mutual understanding that goes unsaid between me and my own parents. And when I found out I would be living in the north of Italy, I immediately switched mind-sets and assumed that I would be with a family that was very cultured, very modern, and very mainstream-European. Instead, my host mom takes enormous pride in still making gnocchi by hand, nobody uses a drying machine for laundry, and one of the most difficult conversations with my host mom was trying to explain the concept of pre-made spaghetti sauce. And I've learned to appreciate the fact that there's a whole lot more to this style of life than simply wanting to be "quaint."

Lots of exciting things coming up!! Tomorrow I'm going skiing with Intercultura, although unfortunately I'm actually the only student going... Everyone else is away with their families or doing an exchange in another part of Italy (unfortunately apparently not an option for the semester students in my region), so it will just be me and the volunteers. Although it's all good because they're all really nice and young and enthusiastic, and I want to talk about the host family stuff. The only problem is the "skiing" part, since my only skiing experience was a total and complete disaster, on the daunting peaks of the Rhode Island mountains. So probably I'll be sledding in the Alps, instead of skiing. Tuesday my class goes to Florence for three days!! And Italians know how to plan their school trips, so there's lots of spare time for strolling through piazzas, in addition to all of the Renaissance art-devouring. Then the 18th birthday of Viviana, one of the girls in my class is Friday, and Saturday Serena and I are planning to go to Milan to see Peter Pan. In Italian!

If people want to write letters, my address is towards the bottom of the blog. :)

Baci a tutti!

Saturday, March 7, 2009

I really should start writing more often - way too much happens and changes in the course of a two weeks that can possibly be contained in a single entry, if we're aiming for a length shorter than the fifth Harry Potter.

In fact, there's so much that could be said (and thus it would take way too much effort to organize all of it), here's another round of impressionism:

- kissing EVERYONE (well, more or less) on the cheek when you meet, and then again when you leave. Consider this situation: six friends meet at a pub, with two groups of three having traveled together. When the two groups meet, everyone who hasn't traveled together has to exchange kisses. The entire procedure must be then be repeated two hours later when everyone gets ready to leave. ......It turns into A LOT of kisses in a very short amount of time. It also means, though, that you immediately break through the ice when you meet someone for the first time. This includes friends of your host sister, host siblings of other exchange students, grandparents of your host sister, host parents of other exchange students, random other friends of friends of your host sister who you happen to meet at odd moments, and the occasional overly-enthusiastic canine. It also makes you particularly aware of how conscious Americans can be about the idea of "personal space."

- never wearing shoes in the house, always flip-flops. And occasionally forgetting that when I leave for school in the morning, causing my host mother to frantically yell "le scarpe!"

- oranges being red inside! Not orange!

- the fantastically amazing panorama from the church in Monticello, looking out in every direction from Milan to south, Torino to the west, and more mountains to the east.

- Carnevale! The streets of every city I've been to in the past week still show traces of all the confetti that's produced during the parades and parties. And now I have a tissue-paper lei and hula skirt which my host mother thinks I should bring back with me, since it took seven hours to make. So if you have need of a tissue paper hawaiian outfit, definitely let me know.

- The other exchange students! Saturday night a group of us met in Lecco for Sigrid's birthday, the girl from the Faroe Islands. We ended up eating in a Chinese restaurant, which was hilarious. We waited an hour and a half, because the restaurant was so small and there were so many of us, to go to "La Pagoda" and order dishes such as "spaghetti con sugo curry." Eating Italianized Chinese food at 10 o'clock at night with, among others, a girl from Hong Kong who hasn't eaten Chinese food for six months is, again, not an experience to be missed!

- Worms II. This is a truly amazing computer game that Maria introduced me to last night. Two players each have four small pink worms. The objective of the game is to eliminate the other player's worms, using weapons such as a flame thrower, teleporter, ninja star, Super Sheep, and rope. Bizarre, to say the least.

- Step Up II. Maria loves hip hop dance, and since it's a distinctly American art form, all of the television shows and movies about it are in English. So now those are my absolute favorite shows and movies, since I can actually understand them. Yesterday during Italian lessons, the boy from Ecuador tried to teach me how to do some sort of hip hop sliding move, but it was a decided failure...

- The profound grief that comes with the realization that, no matter how good it is, you can't possibly accept every offer for gelato that comes to you.

- World Year of Astronomy, enjoyed in true global style! Thursday night, Anna (a girl from my class) invited me to go with her, her mother, and her sister to the library in Merate for a lecture from the president of the National Italian Astronomy Association. Popular astronomy really doesn't change over time and space....

- So much pasta it's really kind of ridiculous.

- Starting to understand bits and pieces of the local dialect! Mainly, you just replace the endings of words with something that sounds kind of like "euhe"

- The fact that, yes, teenagers can drink, and the fact that it's in no way, shape, or form an issue, at least with the other girls in my class. Last Thursday, we went out to a pub in Merate (which in and of itself felt a little weird, since the pub is actually a Mexican restaurant, complete with fake totem pole in the middle). Before I had even started to consider the question of what to drink, Cecilia immediately said "no alcohol!" and started translating all of the descriptions of the non alcoholic drinks. But I was feeling very unwisely confident in my language ability, and assured her that I was fully capable of reading the menu myself. So, while the other girls were drinking things with names such as "Sex on the beach" (another language note: nobody actually noticed what this meant, except me - it's just considered really hip and cool to string English words together. If you're lucky, they might make sense gramatically), I accidentally ended up ordering grape-fruit juice (and also didn't pick up on the clues when Claudia said "ah, non mi piace, troppo acido". Quindi, my first night out in Italy was in a Mexican restaurant slurping grpe-fruit juice. :)

Ciao ciao!
Mary


Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Buona sera!
Ah, where to begin.... Starting from where the last entry left off - Milan is very satisfyingly enormous and overwhelming.

Saturday, while I was typing the last blog entry, Maria came in and completely randomly announced that we were leaving for Milan in twenty minutes. So I clapped and shouted in excitement, and then asked "perchè?" (why?) Maria's response: "boh" (linguistic note - "boh" is a really lovely word that very eloquently and concisely expresses all sorts of things ranging from "whatever" to "who knows" to "I don't care," and is highly favored among Italian youth). But since it's Milan, you really don't need a reason to go....
The distance between Monticello and Milan is more or less the same as the distance between Providence and Boston, but it takes longer because, as usual, the roads aren't straight. Luca drove us all (Maria and me) to a subway station, and then the three of us took the train the rest of the way in. Walking up the subway steps, the first thing that you see is a sweeping pedestrian walk-way completely lined with grandeur buildings filled with fashion labels (Prada, Armani, Dolce and Gabbana.....the works), all leading to Milan's greatest treasure, the Duomo. We got there around four, so everything was lit up by gorgeous afternoon sunlight.


There are lots of pictures of streets, because streets in Italy seem to be particularly photogenic. :)

We walked around for a couple of hours, absorbing the atmosphere and stopping to look at the Scala theater and Luca's office, which is RIGHT IN THE VERY ABSOLUTE CENTER of everything. When I asked him what it's like to work RIGHT IN THE VERY ABSOLUTE CENTER of Milan, his response was also "boh", and said that except when you come in the morning and leave at night, from a street RIGHT IN THE VERY ABSOLUTE CENTER of Milan, it's no different from living or working anywhere else. Go figure.

This week is Carnevale all throughout Italy (and there will be more on that after this weekend), so the streets were filled with little kids dressed up in costumes, exactly like Halloween in the US. And Carnevale is synonomous with confetti, so the streets were also covered with little pieces of colored paper.



If it hadn't been Milan, the whole trip would actually have been a little counterintuitive. We traveled a total of 2.5 hours, braved Italian drivers and, even more frightening, Luca's driving (again see below), so that Maria could buy a plain gray sweatshirt at H&M. But again, it was Milan, so definitely worth it to see the city. Hopefully there will be more trips soon, and a chance to actually go inside the Duomo!

Now, Italian drivers. To put it in perspective: having lived here for six months, when I get back, there will never again be any reason to fear driving in Rhode Island. Seriously. A few days ago, my host dad was driving me back from school, because I had stayed after with the English teacher to try to hunt down more textbooks. Roads in Italy are pretty narrow; as in, there's usually just enough room for two cars to comfortably, but narrowly, pass without having a head-on collision. That would mean that there really isn't room for a truck and a car to pass each other, although somehow it magically always ends up working out. So, my host dad is driving and we're getting pretty close to bridge, which means there isn't really a shoulder on either side. Then, all of a sudden, his cell phone starts ringing. So, of course, he answers it. So, he's driving with his left hand, holding the cell phone with his right, and Oh? did I mention? the car is a stick-shift - occasionally letting go of the wheel completely to change gears. And I almost forgot- Italians also like to talk with their hands. A lot. Including on cell phones. Are you picturing all of this in your mind? Okay, now imagine us approaching the bridge, with an enormous tractor trailer coming the opposite direction, just far enough away that we'll intersect it RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BRIDGE where there isn't any extra room. At this point, I've said goodbye to everyone and said thanks for at least having a chance to read the 7th Harry Potter before I died. But since this is Italy and things like this are a daily occurrence, the car magically and smoothly slid past the oncoming truck and we continued on our merry way.

Driving with Luca is even more of an adventure, because you get to add him singing along in Italian to all of his favorite songs on the radio.

School continues to be one of the best parts of the experience!

This is my class:




And my philosophy teacher (the one from Calabria who always chews an unlit cigar:



We spent an entire class period taking pictures because the Italian\Latin teacher wasn't in school (this made for a very, very happy day - "la lotti", as she's known, is by far the most severe and difficult teacher that we have. When we found out she wasn't going to be in school, there was a class-room wide round of hugs and kisses).
More ways in which school in Italy is different - last Friday, as a joke my class decided to give the philosophy prof a birthday party, since his birthday was Saturday and they were hoping to bribe him into not giving them oral exams this week. So on Friday when he walked into the classroom, Anna ran up to the front with a bottle of champagne (yes, really) and Claudia and Cecilia put a cupcake on his desk with a candle in it. This all seems really generous and extravagant, right? But the prof takes one look at everything and shrieks at the top of his voice that we can't possibly celebrate his birthday because it's unlucky to do it the day before! All of the students kept asking "stai scherzando, vero?" (you're joking, right?) But he was totally serious. So we had a bottle of champagne sitting in the back of the classroom for a week, until yesterday the prof finally let us celebrate for him and we split the bottle 17 ways.
No school tomorrow, Saturday, or Sunday for Carnevale! AFS is going to Lecco for the festival\parade on Saturday, and we all have to dress in clothes from a different country, so tomorrow I'm going to spend the day trying to figure out how to make origami flowers for a lei. I decided that Hawaii was the cheapest option, despite my horrendous track record at origami projects.... Vediamo!
Tonight eight or nine of the girls in my class are going out to a pub in Casatenovo! None of our other plans to go out have worked out, so this will be the first time. Everyone's really nice (and very mature and responsible, compared to impressions of American teenagers) so it should be really fun.
Everything is set for me to go with my class to Florence for three days in March!! We're going with the History of Art teacher who's BRAVISSIMA - incredibly nice, very enthusiastic, and very very funny. I can't wait!! Hopefully it'll also be possible to go to Strausbourg later in the year with another class, since Max and Ryoto are both going too. The school is also going to be offering free classes after school for music, so I've just signed up for piano and voice lessons! It'll be really good to have a chance to meet more students and be out of the house more... Teachers and students are also really enthusiastic to help me find a school for dance, so hopefully that will work out as well! At the least, I hope to connect with people enough that it might be possible to see a show at The Scala... :)
A presto!
baci
Mary



Thursday, February 19, 2009

Ciao a tutti! I've been writing this for like four days, so the meaning of "yesterday" and "tomorrow" is kind of irrelevant.

So, I just thought that the world needed to know that my life was pretty much changed forever yesterday when I discovered that schools in Italy have machines that dispense instant espresso and cappuccino for roughly $.75.

Starting this week, every Monday and Wednesday, for two hours in the morning and two more in the afternoon, Max and Rioto (the two other exchange students at Agnesi, both with Rotary - Max is American, Rioto is Japanese) and I go to Italian lessons with other kids from the area. We're the only exchange students; everyone else has immigrated to Italy with their parents. There are a six girls from Romania, a girl and boy from Russia, three girls and a boy from India, a girl from Albania, and one boy from Ecuador, but the three exchange students are the only ones going to both morning and afternoon sessions. Anyway. Yesterday was our second morning, and after an hour of working (kind of, but I'll get back to that later), Max and Rioto wanted to eat something (this is a very common occurrence). I decided to go along to see more of the school, since the lessons aren't actually held at Agnesi.

And then I saw the espresso machine. To begin (prepare yourselves: this is a truly poetic description), it has like 12 different choices based on whether you want sugar/chocolate or a cappuccino or just plain espresso, and then after you make your choice it whirs and hums and performs its espresso-magic and then down comes a little plastic cup and a little plastic stirrer. And then the machine beeps its Italian greeting, you lift a little plastic door, take the cup, and walk away with a steaming (in my case) cappucino. I'm seriously still excited by this discovery, and eagerly anticipating next Wednesday. :)

A word on the actual lessons - they're way more fun than I would have ever expected. Everybody has been in Italy for different amounts of time, and been under different pressures to actually learn the language, so we don't actually have a planned, orderly lesson. Instead the teacher assigns exercises in books as we go along, stopping at each individual student. Except that the teacher is really young and relaxed, so this quickly turns into goofing off and throwing things at each other, albeit in Italian.

AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Maria just came in and told me that we're going to Milan this afternoon!!!!!!! Okay, back to blogging:

Things keep getting better in school. I now have books for almost all the subjects, except Latin, history, and math, so I can follow along in the discussions (kind of sort of). English is definitely my favorite, besides actually understanding everything going on. The teacher studied in England for a few years, so her English is really really good, and this year they're concentrating on literature, so instead of doing grammar worksheets, we get to discuss Shakespeare. Right now we're reading Richard III (well, excerpts anyway), and since I'm the only native-speaker I've been reading all of the longer passages and soliloquies. And the best part is that since I'm an exchange student and have learned over the past three weeks to absolutely embrace making a fool out of myself, there's no reason to shy away from hamming things up. Also, probably the most isolating thing about not knowing the language is that you can't follow along when people tell jokes or when something funny is on tv, so it's really really nice to actually know what I'm laughing at when Shakespeare makes funny plays on words, or other things like that.

This is a nicely disorganized entry, so I thought that now I'd talk for a minute about food, which is rather important here. We do eat lots of very identifiably Italian food, but things vary a little bit because of all of the culture associated with living in the mountains. Lunch is nearly always meat (chicken, bistecca, sometimes fish) and salad or carrots or potatoes and beets (I nearly died of happiness when I walked in from school and saw a large bowl of beets on the table). Dinner has included, over the past three weeks (it really doesn't feel like three weeks already) pastasciutta, lasagna, crespelle (which took two days to make, including all of the crepes, the ragu, and the bechamel sauce), risotto (tonight it's risotto milanese!), minestrone (which here means a soup with rice, potatoes, and lots and lots of parsley), and pizza, all of which are very recognizably Italian. But last night we eat something whose name I still can't remember, even though I asked like three times, which was apparently very typical of the mountains. Potatoes (which are in a bag hanging outside of a window, so when you want a potato, you open the window and reach out to grab one), cabbage, a funny gray type of pasta which also has a name that I forget, and roughly a pound of cheese. Oohh!! And the cheese here is soooo gooooodddd!!! Last Sunday we just ate cheese, bread, and vegetables, and it was supremely amazing. And then Tuesday night, when we were going to eat risotto but didn't because there wasn't any rice, my host mother made the absolute most extraordinary macaroni and cheese that has ever existed.

Since I'm on a role with the food topic - last night we had gelato for the first time! Every couple of days my host dad has to run errands and asks me to come with him, I guess so I can see more of the area. So yesterday we went out in the afternoon so he could drop stuff off at the Gruppo Alpini, and then walked around Casatenovo, a town near Monticello, while he explained all of the finer points of Italian butchers too me. Then we waited to pick up Maria, who has a prep class for a big English exam Friday afternoons. As soon as we got back to the car, Maria started saying "gelato gelato gelato gelato", even though it was 40 degrees out and windy. So we ended up going to the gelateria in Casatenovo. I was really not going to get any, because it was freezing cold and by this point after 6 pm, so dinner was relatively soon. But my host dad was appalled that I didn't want any, and I realized that I was in Italy and this was gelato, so why not... Two flavors were mandatory, so I had frutto di bosco (berries) and limone. It was absolutely sublime.

I think that's enough of food for a while. More later (including more pictures), because now WE'RE LEAVING FOR MILAN!!!!!!!



Friday, February 13, 2009

Starting out on an exchange program (and then trying to right a blog about it, hahahaha) is a lot like being in an impressionist painting. There's so much going on and so many new things that it's completely impossible to describe it all, or give a blow-by-blow account of everything that happens and everything that I'm experiencing. i.e. I'm lazy. So! In true Monèt style (I'm not sure if there's an accent in his name, I just wanted to play with they really spiffy keyboards that make it way easier to write using accents), here's a list of what, for me, right at this very moment, identifies Italy:

- My Philosophy teacher, who dresses all in black and who Cecilia, one of the girls in my class, has a wild crush on. He chews an unlit cigar everyday when he comes into class, and speaks with a thick southern accent (North\South prejudices are still very pronounced - the other students describe it as not being "pure" Italian)

-the fire in a wood stove in the living room of my house, which is the only reliable source of heat and forces everyone to spend large amounts of time reading or watching TV together, to stay warm

- the weekly deliveries of bread and biscotti from my host dad's brother, and the smell of the bread during every lunchand dinner when we put it on top of the stove to warm up

-hot lunch every day, which my host parents have waiting when Maria and I get home from school (actually Mom, when you read this, I kind of miss making my own lunch and just eating peanut butter!) We only really eat two substantial meals a day, so Maria and I end up eating tons at lunch because we're starving after all morning at school, and we don't get back until 1:30-3:00, depending on the day of the week.

-the view from the classroom window, overlooking church towers and the Alps (yes, really)

- three or four girls in my class going out for a smoke every day during the 11 o'clock break

- one or two girls (and one boy) hanging up their motorcycle helmets on the coathangers in the morning, when they get to school

-my host dad baking at home, making pizza or tarts or biscotti, usually wearing a bright red, flowery apron, and often singing at the same time. His repertoire ranges from Beyoncè to church hymns.

-my host dad's parents' house, located in the middle of Osnago's winding streets, with walls from the 1400s

-homemade gnocchi on Saturdays

-eating bananas (with sugar and lemon juice) with my host dad while I was writing this in my journal....even though I was still full from lunch

-students at school shouting and yelling and crying as they decide who's going to volunteer to be interrogated (self-sacrifice anyone?)

-watching television during lunch and dinner (and the television always being on from 7:00 onward). Right now it's downhill skiing during the day and "Who Wants to be a Millionaire" at night (the Italian version), which everyone plays along with. Maria and I just watched "America's Next Top Dance Crew" which is my new favorite show because it's in English and I miss dancing. :)

-my host family being way more conscious of natural resources (or at least, my host parents) Lights are always turned off in unused rooms, doors are closed to save heat, and the only warm room is the one with the wood stove. Clothes are washed much, much less often, and when it rains, my host mom dries them in front of the fire. Food is never, ever, ever wasted. In fact, I just got reprimanded for that tonight - it turns out there's actually a word in Italian for cleaning your plate. Stray strands of pasta or grains of rice are not acceptable.... Every plate is cleaned with bread, no leftovers go uncomsumed, and every morsel of flour is incorporated when my host dad bakes. Showers are taken much more rarely - I feel odd taking them every three days.

-The girl sitting next to me in school, named Serena, who's officialy the nicest person in the world. After every announcement or discussion, she turns and asks if I've understood, and since more often than not I haven't, she always repeats it in simple, slow Italian.

-Seeing Montevecchia every day, to and from school

-Maria telling me about what she likes, always punctuated by "Che bbbeeelllllloooooooo!" or "It's fantastic!"

-Maria reading Frankenstein aloud or doing her English homeowrk while I helpf. or her standing in front of the fire (the most coveted place in the house) and practicing out loud for interrogations.

-The in-your-face prominence (at least to a die-hard-separation-of-church-and-state American) of the Catholic church

-seeing the Alps every time we turn a corner in the car (I still get a shock everytime)

-the morning routine of giant bowls of tea and biscotti

-trying to remember all of the names of Papa's extensive family and making the distinction between family and friends. This is not helped by the fact that every other person is also named Mary.... :)

-church bells, every hour on the hour. The one's in Monticello are simple and just give you the time. The one's in Merate which you can hear at school are much more elaborate.

I'm going to go to sleep now......school on Saturday!

Baci a tutti-

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Today is a very important day.

On my fourth day of school at Liceo M.G. Agnesi, I can proudly say that I was only totally and completely lost during one class today.

It's a major improvement.

(For the record, it was Spanish, which I'm convincing myself is excusable since they've studied it for years and never-mind-the-fact-that-Spanish-and-Italian-are-as-closely-related-as-two-etymologically-distinct-languages-can-be I haven't studied it before.)

To sum all of the events of the past four days up, I love school in Italy!! Chemistry, physics, and math are all very doable, because the teachers use the blackboard very extensively. And the little that I can understand in Philosophy, Italian, Latin, Religion, and History is interesting enough to make it worth slogging through until I can understand more.

What I still can't figure out how to do is answer questions - no matter how simple (although I think I've mastered "what's your name?") I usually stare at the person dumbly for a few seconds until after an immaginary awkward turtle has floated through the air and kicked me in the head, and I realize that it was question and either blurt out what I think might be the correct response, or wait until the other person feels sorry enough to repeat it. Italian doesn't have a different word order for questions, like in English, so you have to listen to the intonation. On top of that, it helps to be able to understand every word. Which I usually don't.

Anyway. That was a kind of unnecessary tangent.

The teachers at school differ like anywhere else. My favorite is the History of Art teacher, who's very, very funny and enthusiastic. It's a running joke that she replies to everything by saying "ok! ok!" in a comically thick Italian accent. Yesterday everyone in the class urged her on as she worked out how to say "Yoooouuuu aaarrrreeee veryvery niiiccee" in English. The Italian and Latin teacher (the same woman) is very strict and formal (i.e. she embodies Professor McGonagall), and an extremely good teacher. Italian schools have oral examinations (literally "interrogations"), which means that everyone has to be prepared all the time to sit at the teacher's mercy and recant absolutely everything they can possibly remember about the subject, while the teacher and most of the class stares at them. (This is not something I am anticipating with excitement). But it does imply that students tend to be much more on top of readings and homework than at Classical.

Yesterday the class threw a welcome party, and we ate cicerchiata, a sort of fried pastry that's made in Italy only during Carnevale, which is at the end of February. And oh man, since my host dad's family has a bunch of pasticcerias, we've also been eating them at home so if anyone in the US wants some cicerchiata, I've got sources for you.

Saturday night a bunch of girls in my class are going to go out, which should be really fun! They don't know where we're going yet, but usually teenagers go to bars (i.e. cafès) or discotechs, or sometimes to movies or bowling.

Monday, February 9, 2009

So. TODAY WAS MY FIRST DAY OF SCHOOL!!

Every morning one of my host parents comes in to wake up Maria at 6:15, because she goes to a private school in Monza which is 20 minutes by car, and longer by bus, which she takes. And usually I wake up, vaguely note what happened, and promptly go back to sleep, fulfilling all expectations of exchange students who spend all their time sleeping. But today I actually had to get up, which was kind of difficult until I remembered that OH MY GOODNESS I HAVE TO GO SCHOOL TODAY.

So then, like every morning, I had an enormous bowl of tea and ate a few biscotti (breakfast is very low key here. Everyone gets a nice caffeine jolt from tea or caffè latte, and eats a couple of biscotti or these mini-toast-like thingies with marmalade.) Then, because the bus system here seems very complicated (although that might just be the language barrier) my host parents and I pored over the bus schedule trying to figure out which one I'll be taking. But it didn't really matter for today, because my host dad was planning on driving me too and from for the first day.

So we got in the car and drove to Merate, where Liceo M.G. Agnesi is (a route which conveniently takes us past the extremely lovely Montevecchia, which is even prettier in early morning sunlight). The teacher who we had met the first time we went to the school, last week, met us again, and then one of the English teacher's took me up to the 4^E classroom.

VERY VERY luckily, my first class today was English! Everyone was sooooo friendly and welcoming. In Italy, students stay in the same classroom with the same students all day, while the teachers rotate. I'm in the second to last year, since Italians have five years of high school, in a class of 14 girls and 2 boys (who sit together in the back of the room). I'm sure I'll forget something, but I believe my class studies Inglese, Matematica, Fisica, Biologia, Storia d'Arte (art history), Storia, Spagnole, Chimica, Filosofia, Italiano, Religione, and Educazionale Fiscia (gym, but only twice a week and I think I have supplementary Italian lessons then :D). Five classes a day, with a 10-15 minute break at 11. The day goes from 8-1 six days a week, and then everyone goes home in the afternoon to eat lunch with their families (today it was.......pasta! Acutally, "pastasciutta", because the word "pasta" refers to any pastry\doughy object. They eat lots of Italian food here, in case anyone was wondering). My school is rare in that it does offer some extra-curriculars, so in the next couple of weeks I might see about joining something like at Classical. And there's a girl in my class who does ballet at a school in Merate!!!

So, back to the school day. First was English, so the teacher introduced me to the class and they asked questions about the US, which I got to answer in English, and then I asked them questions about the school. Then the teacher had them all talk about their impressions of the school (Latin is hard, Spanish is easy). And she also mentioned that there's a school trip to Florence in March!!!!!

After English was PE, but I didn't have any clothes to change into. It didn't matter at all though, because the gym teachers were totally relaxed and let us stand in a big circle and talk for 45 minutes. Everyone was really curious and had lots of questions, so we talked all about the US and Italy and Twilight and Harry Potter (almost all in Italian!).

Matematica was next, which besides English will probably end up being the easiest class. Math is universal, but the way they learn it here and how in-depth they go to topics is different, so right now they're covering trigonometry. It still takes a while to get used to the different names for everything and the way methods for solving problems and approaching equations differs, so still lots of to learn.

And if I was worried about school being boring after Matematica, Filosofia delivered a nice blow to my self-confidence. :) Non ho avuto capito NIENTE. The girl next to me, Serena, explained afterward that it was hard to follow the discussion even in Italian, but seriously, besides the name "Locke," I had absolutely no idea what was going on. Hopefully that will change once I have a book and know more Italian? And hopefully the teacher won't interrogate me (daily oral exams) until sometime ideally in May. Maybe June. Or better yet, not at all!

The Italian teacher, however, was very gung-ho about jumping right in (admittedly the best way to learn). Mainly they've been reading Dante, which is compulsory in all of Italy for fourth-year students, but today they were discussing a reading from the 1700s about the death penalty (la pena di morte). It was easier to follow than Filosofia because the arguments weren't totally different from what we might say in a US classroom, although it was really interesting to listen to some of the students' perspectives on the US still allowing it. And then the teacher asked me what I thought! In Italian! Oh man. Excellent practice in learning how to not mind making a total and complete fool of yourself!

I don't have any textbooks yet so I can't really do any homework tonight....

A presto!
Baci

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Tomorrow marks one week in Monticello!

I've been really lucky and don't start school until Monday, so I've had a week to get to know my host family and learn their routines and habits, and to desperately attempt to learn as much Italian as possible. The best part? I'm learning Italian mainly by reading Twilight! Oh yeah. And I think sometime soon Maria and her friends are going to watch the movie (in Italian), so I'll get the full dual-language Twilight experience.

Thursday was the AFS Intercultura welcome party for the second semester students! We had to drive to Lecco, which is only 20 kilometers away, but distances are kind of misleading here because even though Italian drivers are ABSOLUTELY CRAZY, totally putting Rhode Island drivers to shame, the roads are so curvy it still took 30-40 minutes to get there. Everyone was crammed into the kitchen, and we met all of the year students, host families, and liasons. There's a girl from the Faroe Islands (!), and a girl from Hong Kong who lives just a few minutes away. There are two other new students, one from New Zealand and another from Columbian, and I think there are 8 or 9 of us in all.

Last night I met my host dad's parents, who live in a town called Osnago, near Monticello. AND OH MY GOODNESS IT WAS AWESOME. The town itself is like 1000 years old (I think - all of this information was delivered in Italian, so the margin for error is, hem hem, very very high), and the house where i nonni live has a room with walls preserved from the 1400s. Che bellissima!!! My host dad has seven brothers and two or three sisters, so the house (which is right in the middle of the town) is basically an entire building overlooking a courtyard inside. And one brother runs a pasticceria (a bakery), so to go upstairs to kitchen, you walk between the shop and the pasticceria kitchens. And oh man they make some truly amazing chocolate cream puffs.

Two days ago I got up the courage to ask my host mother if I could go for a walk, since I do it all the time at home in the US and the area around the house is mainly fields and little narrow roads. Except that then she asked what I thought was "you won't get lost, right?" and so I nodded cheerfully and said "certo!" (certainly). But apparently she was actually asking something more like "But won't you get lost?" So that didn't really work out. But then she offered to walk with me, so we ended up walking into the center of town, and because then it started raining we ran into the Gruppo Alpini building, which is (again piecing things together from what I could pick out of my host dad's explanation) a branch of the Italian military which does something in the Alps. Google to the rescue! Anyway. So downstairs there's a bar which was filled with older men chatting and drinking coffee, and upstairs is the club office, where my host dad is the secretary. The walls are covered with Alpine hats and the whole building looks like an Alpine hunting lodge - it's a really interesting contrast with the rest of the buildings and town. And then my host mother started speaking the local dialect, Brianzolo, with an older man who was also upstairs working. That was really cool, because you can hear all of the French and German inflections. The only word I know is "nem!" which means the same thing as "andiamo!", or let's go! And like some of the older people in town, this man doesn't actually speak Italian, only the local dialect. But sadly the language is dying out - Luca and Maria can understand it, but they don't speak it, which is true of pretty much all the younger people here.

I'm going to go keep reading Twilight.... :)

A presto!
Mary

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

ITALIA 101

Important words for foreigners to know:

capito (or more often than not, non capito)/capisco - I do\don't understand. Seriously like 80% of what I say right now....

buono\bello\bravo - all variations on "good" but each used in different ways and I still can't for the life of me figure out how

BASTA - "enough", because Italian mothers want you to eat more. Always.

esatto - "exactly" for all the times when you flail your arms around trying to mime out what your trying to say and your host family provides the Italian (extra points if it turns out to be an exact cognate. Per esempio, yesterday I was trying to describe North Dakota to my host father, with variations on "lots of space, not lots of people", when he raised his eyebrows and said "deserto?". Deserted. Heh. Esatto!)

My host family is amazing, and it already feels very much like home! My host dad, Gianmaria, is retired from working at a bank, but still "giovane" (young) inside, as my host mother says. My host mom's name is Daniela, and she works part-time at a factory that makes picture frames. They've both lived in Monticello Brianza their whole lives; the house was originally Daniela's grandmother's, and all of her family is buried in the local cemetery. Both are EXTREMELY patient, which is pretty much the best thing I could have asked for in a host family! Gianmaria has picked up a few words of English, but Daniela doesn't speak any, which is amazing for learning Italian, but not so great if you want to communicate quickly and efficiently. But they're always willing to speak slowly, rephrase things in simpler words, or look things up in the dictionary.

It's been wonderful to have a sorella (sister) for the first time! Maria Gloria is similarly amazing. She's been learning English and is getting ready for a huge standarized English exam, so she practices her English, I practice my Italian, and it works out perfectly for everyone. Two nights ago I helped her with her English homework, and we talked about the Industrial Revolution in a broken Italian-English pidgin. Not an experience to be missed!

I also have a brother, Luca, although I haven't had a chance to talk to him very much. He works as an analyst in an investment management company in Milan, and hasn't been home except for the first night because he volunteers as an ambulance driver and was out meeting friends. He's fluent in English though, which is incredibly helpful for the times when communication is really necessary. Both he and Maria Gloria have been very generous about acting as translators when I get confused!

I don't start school until Monday, because this is a review week (I think - something involving "recuperare." Everyone was speaking really fast when they were explaining it.). There are two other exchange students at the school though (two boys, one from North Dakota and the other from Japan, and both speak English), and since the school offers supplementary Italian lessons, I'll be able to take lessons with them! The teachers I talked to were all very excited that I can speak a little Italian already, which is encouraging because I'm still pretty lost most of the time... I can follow the gist of conversations, but if people ask me something directly or if there's a lot of background noise, I have absolutely no idea what's going on. It's an interesting change! There have been a lot of times of the past few days when I've gotten in a car with only the vaguest idea of where we're going.

The town of Monticello is beautiful! Everything is very hilly (I'm in the pre-Alpine region), and the first night I was here it snowed six or seven inches. My house is at the bottom of a hill, looking up towards the center of the village and the church. (There are many, many churches and they are all, without exception so far, very old and very pretty).

And today I went to Lake Como with my host parents! AAAhhhh sooooo pretttyyy!!!


Tomorrow there's a welcome party by AFS Intercultura for all the students in my region, so I'll be able to see the town Lecco (which is supposed to be even prettier than Como) and meet all the other students. And Italian lessons start Friday!
Ciao a tutti!!


Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Ciao a tutti!!

I'm writing from my room in Monticello Brianza, serenaded by a particularly noisy flock of sheep in the field next to the house!


The room Maria Gloria and I share:
And the sheep:



So much to tell everyone! I'll try to keep this post from becoming ridiculously long!



Okay, here's a recap of the past six days:

Because of the ice storms in New England, Mom underwent her Transformers-esque metamorphosis into Hun Tours mode and expertly changed all of our travel plans. We spent Tuesday night in Boston, and then I flew to New York early Wednesday morning. Since the orientation didn't actually start until 5 that night, I had a rather significant amount of time to kill in the scenic JFK Doubletree Hotel. But on the way to the hotel from the airport, I ended up taking the same shuttle as a girl from North Dakota going to France, and we talked for hours (literally, since we had about six before anyone else arrived). That was really awesome, because we were worried about so many of the same types of things and it was fun to wonder about how things would work out with our host families.



The New York orientation itself was kind of like lima beans - useful, but ultimately bland. Few things kill the mood at a party than 70 bored, anxious teenagers! We went over the AFS rules (there are only three of them, so it doesn't take long) MANY, MANY times, and talked some about ways to integrate yourself into the community. The students going to Italy (there are 43 of us) had a Skype conversation with a Sicilian woman, who gave a us a 45-minute crash course in Italian culture. It was intense! The best activity (and incredibly useful) of the orientation was Charades, using a compilation of enthusiastic hand gestures, broken Italian, and odd bits of French and Spanish to try to convey such eloquent ideas as "I need a blender, milk, a peach, and a banana to make a smoothie." If the past three days are any indication, six months from now we'll all have had a lot more practice!



We flew from New York to Paris Wednesday evening, via Air France. The flight was loads of fun. More 45-minute crash courses (in Italian), and we thought that we were ridiculously cool for talking to the flight attendants in high school French (which in my case is completely nonexistent). The flight attendants were very indulgent.



We had a two-hour layover in Charles de Gaulle, which ended up being just enough. We had to go through security again, but we got really confused about where to go so various policeman ended up pushing us towards a seperate security station for airport employees. But since there were 43 of us, we hadn't slept in 24 hours, and everyone was carrying her entire life on his back (why are English pronouns so difficult?), it took a while to get through.




The flight from Paris to Rome was also fun, because I ended up sitting next to a very talkative Lebanese fashion photographer - the conversation ranged from the Statue of Liberty to Alpine skiing to urban development to the state of electrical engineering in Lebanon. All on a 24 and counting hours without sleep, which is definitely the best way to do things!




Le Alpi!!






We got to Rome, lost of a few kids in the airport, eventually found those kids, then waited for a while for the AFS volunteer who had gone off to look for them. And then we drove through Rome to the Villa Aurelia, a hotel-conference center where we had the Italian-side of the orientation.



Everything that other students have said comparing the NY and Rome orientations is completely true! In NY, the volunteers were older and treated us like we were somewhere around the age of 12, the food was okay, the plates were made of paper, and the weather was foul. In Rome, the volunteers were all around 26, our orientation included an impromptu "How to swear in Italian" lesson, lunch and dinner always included three courses, served by waiters, at tables supplied with bottles of sparkling water, and the weather was a balmy 55 degrees (after 36 hours without sleep and 13 hours without food, dinner the first night was very probably the best meal I've ever had). And it was sunny.




Our one touristy thing during the orientation (which was much shorter than we were expecting, although after NY I think we were all tired of being oriented, so it all worked out in the end) was a visit to the Vatican. BELLISIMA!










Whew. This is longer than I planned, and I haven't actually gotten to the host family part yet... Another post with more later! But to sum things up, everything has been going splendidly and I LOVE MY HOST FAMILY.


Baci e abbracci! (Kisses and hugs! Italian is a rather affectionate language.)

Mary

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Address

Via Schiapparelli 1
Monticello Brianza, 23876 LC
Italy

Letters are always welcome!

Send me your address and I'll write postcards!

And now for your viewing pleasure.........




A picture from Monticello's website!

28 hours and counting.

Monday, January 26, 2009

DEPARTURE!

Today was my last day of American high school. Ever. Wow.

~2070 days of school.
~1500 peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.
~6 Gilbert Linkous field days.
~2 bloody noses from Whopper Hoppers at Gilbert Linkous field days.
~192 safety patrol cupcakes.
~3 Potter Pride days with Emma (and one Hobbit Pride day, ftw!)
~630 days of having to go from gym to a class on the third-floor. In four minutes. With a 20-pound backpack.

*sigh* It's the end of an era!

And now that the requisite nostalgia and sentimentality is out of the way - I'm leaving for Italy in 36 hours!! And I haven't started packing! In fact, I'm blogging instead. This year taught me way too much about the joys of procrastination....

For our final Italian lesson, Santina decided to have Lena (the student from Russia) and Nora (the student from Norway staying with Santina) and me help her cook Italian food! To add to the list of things to do in life - have a conversation in broken Italian with a Sicilian university professor while she sings Italian rap songs, as the smell of scorching risotto (which you've forgotten to stir while trying to remember Italian verb endings) fills the air behind you!

And since I don't have any pictures yet, here are some random internet pictures of what we made:

Exhibit A:

Penne all'amatriciana!

Exhibit B:


Risotto alla milanese!

It was all AMAZING. Possibly having to do with the very extensive use of olive oil and butter. This may or may not be why Italians are renowned for enjoying life so much: they don't have to worry about not believing that it's not butter! Apparently they just don't care. And 24 hours and many vigorous hand washings later, my hands still smell like garlic!


Okay, this time I'm actually going to go start packing.

Monday, January 5, 2009

Preparing for Departure

Okay, so this will probably be the last post before I finally leave Jan. 28th! Which is still 23 days away, but here's to hoping it comes quickly:

Departure schedule:

Orientation in NYC Jan. 28.
Fly to Paris, then Rome Jan. 29/30.
Spend 6 months in Italy. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Return to the US Jul 5.

I've been talking to my host sister, Maria Gloria, online a couple of times a week, which is awesome. There's a huge language barrier, so we end up communicating via a sort of English/Italian pidgin, but it's really fun, and I learn sooo much about colloquial Italian from the way she types. About a week ago I got a big packet of host family information from AFS, which included lots of pictures. My host parents, Gianmaria and Daniela, are both retired, but they do volunteer work and manage a garden, and my hostbrother Luca apparently likes to sail. Mom is hoping that it will include a chance to sail on Lake Como, and thus possibly a glimpse of George Clooney.....

Italian keeps becoming easier and more familiar. I feel like I have a handle on most of the grammar (Santina, an amazing woman from Sicily who has been giving Italian lessons to me and Lena, an exchange student from Russia, is officially the world's best Italian teacher), so now I'm trying to build vocabulary. That's probably the biggest problem about only having studied it for 5 months - the grammar follows from Latin, but Vergil never had to use words for pencils or backpacks or cell phones, so there are tons and tons of words I don't know. And I don't usually remember any of the new vocabulary in Vergil anyway....

Still no school assignment, which means there's still no way to apply for a Visa. All of the students leaving are getting really worried - but since no one has been able to apply yet, I'm assuming they must process them reeaallllyyy fast, since it's unlikely they'd be forced to postpone the departure date for all 45 of us. Hopefully? ^^

In other news: while my friends in Providence suggested that I "take my fashion to Milan" rather than trying to adopt more conventionally fashionable attire, I am now thoroughly decked out in new clothing. And it's mostly age appropriate. It's a really bizarre experience to finally buy clothes in a store that (*gasp*) sells hip new teen gear, where every other customer is also a teenager!

Oh, and just to keep track of other ongoing developments - I've been accepted to MIT and UChicago (yay! no more applications! which is terrific because I've turned into a first-rate procrastinator and I'm not sure how I would have gotten the rest done), and now I'm just waiting for Harvard. But I'm also currently having a midlife crisis (albeit at 17 :D) trying to decide if I actually want to do astrophysics. It wouldn't be quite so hard if I hadn't been planning on it since the beginning of fifth grade.... So now I'm thinking maybe I actually want to do something in science/technology in sustainable international development. But I'm not sure. There are very many things to think about, mostly involving the fact that the world is an enormous and exciting place and I'm not sure that 50 or 60 years in academia would really be the most satisfying. So if anyone has advice, I would be happy to listen before I leave!